It
should be noted that there are hundreds of designs in mews
(housing/facilities) for birds of prey. Some are plain, but
functional. Some are built like houses with heating and air
conditioning systems. They can be build for a little more than
$100 or as much as ones' wallet will stand. In the United
States, there are minimum standards for housing. Before you
begin construction consult your regulations and by all means
consult your local building codes and deed restrictions
before you start to build.
Lets' look at some basic principals and what we are trying to
accomplish. A person with even elementary construction skills
can build an adequate mew. It takes a bit more skill to
construct a more elaborate facility.
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The bird must be protected from the
elements. Not too much sun, not too much shade. Where can you
place the mew on your property that allows good sunlight,
preferably morning sun, yet still can provide some shade?
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Will you build an outdoor (sometimes
called weathering) facility or an indoor? Both need a pitched
roof of some sort. I would suggest you put as much time and
effort into a roof as you do anything else. The last thing you
want is a roof that unintentionally leaks.
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Think about how you are going to keep it
clean. Birds of prey mute (poop, if you prefer) a LOT. Their
mute is often difficult to remove from walls and flooring. How
much time are you willing to spend on "poop detail"?
May
I offer a few suggestions?
1. Build with good materials. Especially the frame and
the roof. Use first quality material, rather than used. It is
easier to work with, and in the long run saves you time and
money on repairs later. Think about using quality roofing
material too. While it is more expensive, (naturally) a good
quality roof will last the lifetime of the mew.
2. The floor. As important as the roof. The regulations
say well drained. There are lots of ways to do this. If you are
going to use a raised wood floor I would suggest pressure
treated wood and space the wood leaving a gap of about an inch.
You can cover the gap using 1/8" hardware cloth and then cover
the whole floor with either "pea" gravel or indoor-outdoor
carpet. The floor of any mew really should be more than just
dirt.
3. The interior walls. Assuming you build your
mew using standard residential construction spacing for the
frame (also known as 16 on center), there are some products
available that you can use for the interior walls that allow a
reasonably easy clean up. Commonly referred to as "shower board"
it comes in 4x8 sheets, is relatively inexpensive and pretty
easy to work with. It is designed to be used in showers, so it
is water proof. Its' slick surface allows for easy cleaning,
unless of course you let the mutes stand for a month! I have
purchased this product for less than $20 a sheet at home
centers. Today, some falconers are using a product called
Coroplast. Coroplast is
a type of corrugated plastic sheeting. It also comes in 4x8
sheets and is relatively inexpensive, easy to obtain and with
proper care, will last for years. It is easy to clean with a
pressure washer without deterioration.
4. The exterior walls. Using accepted
construction dimensions, siding now made from highly compressed
fiber does the trick nicely. The pre-cut, over lapping joint,
4x8 sheets make for an attractive and speedy job. It weathers
well and unless completely unprotected, should last for 20 or
more years. This "non-wood" product is advertised as free of
chemicals that might be harmful. Be sure to check all labels on
any product you are thinking about buying. Make sure it
is safe for your bird. If in doubt don't buy it until you have
checked with the product manufacturer and verified in writing
that there are no chemicals
harmful to birds in the product.
5. Ventilation. Do not build your mew or facility
without giving careful consideration to ventilation. Facing a
mew to the north, where cold blasts of air enter, is not a good
idea. You know the area you live in best, but pay careful
attention to wind direction (Will you live upwind or downwind of
a mew? Downwind in summer can be a bit much sometimes).
6. Safety chamber. Believe in them! Design your mew with
a safety chamber and you greatly reduce chances of escape when
handling your bird. As a bonus, a safety chamber may give you a
place to put gloves, scales, leashes, perches and other
equipment or a place to sit when your spouse throws you out of
your house.
7. Your sponsor will be a great help to you. A sponsor
will usually insist you visit several facilities (mews) of other
falconers before you begin your first mew. Look, listen, take
notes and (if possible or permitted) photographs. In North
Carolina sponsors are now required by the State to make
pre-inspections of mews and equipment, prior to the official
inspection. Remember, there is no perfect mew, but with careful
planning and construction you can make one that is safe,
durable, comfortable and easy to clean. Mews are often
evolutionary, meaning you will find yourself making improvements
over the years, changing perches, materials, etc. Make sure you
build with this in mind.
The following is one
design I like a lot. It meets the need. It is expandable. It is
affordable, but most important it is safe and comfortable.
This design can be found in the book
Falconry and Hawking by Phillip Glasier. I like
Glasier's work. His book makes some excellent recommendations. I
have read it so many times the pages are well worn and I just
bought a new copy. This book should be on your shelf when you
are not reading it. I keep my well worn copy close at hand. It
also has great sections on everything from equipment (such as
hoods and perches) to manning and flying.
"Phillip Glasier (now deceased)
was the founder of The Falconry Centre at Newent in
Gloucestershire (England) and co-founder of the Hawk Trust and
Raptor Breeders Association. He was a keen conservationist, and
he trained and flew birds of prey for over 60 years, as both an
amateur and a professional. His previous books include ~As the
Falcon Her Bells~ and ~A Hawk in the Hand~".
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